SPRING 2024 NEWSLETTER

Board Member Laurie Weirton’s garden friend

It used to be that lots of fields and ditches were full of native plants transported by birds, animals, wind, people, etc. Farmers had higher costs and needed to make the most of their properties. They planted every square inch of land, no longer burned ditches due to wildfires; it was more expedient to use chemicals to kill everything in the ditches. Native plants disappeared. Today, we are using methods dating back to the early days when nothing was wasted, and people gathered only what they needed. Native seeds self-sow. Many of today’s sterile cultivars are crossed with another plant.

Valley Wood Wildlife Park Gardens is a great example of coming back to “wildness”.  When gathering seeds look for an area that does not have herbicide drift.  Prepare your site by removing rocks and anything that you cannot work around. Does anything grow there or is it discolored? Sample the soil: does it clump, is it sandy, silty, or a combination? Test the soil ph for acidity or alkalinity. Native plants like slightly acidic soil. Turn the soil now but leave it alone afterwards; there will be millions of biomes that build your soil.

Find the right seeds for the native site by going to catalogs, the internet or your local pollinator garden. What plants do you like? Did you find the name on a tag or a handbook? Note the size, color, and when it is blooming. In the fall go back and find the plant and check to see if it has dried out and seeds have formed. You will know if they are ready to pick if the seed stem is brittle and if the seeds are firm.

If they are not ready you can hang little fabric jewelry bags over the seeds, tie it off and remember to come back to retrieve them. Some seeds will explode when they are ready to plant; the bag with capture them. Take them home, sort, clean excess materials off, place in a paper bag, label, date and fasten shut. 

Find a corner in your refrigerator and place the dated seeds in that spot and keep adding more seed packs. Put date on the seed packet. They will need to be kept around 40 degrees F for 60 days (this cold will trigger the seeds to go dormant) (stratification). When the soil is 50F or warmer it is time to plant.

Native seeds can range from specks to larger sizes. If the seeds are tiny you need to broadcast the seeds and sprinkle lightly with soil. If they are larger then cover them approximately 3x their size with soil. Keep the soil damp until you see leaves sprouting. Use a water container with a hole cap for light watering.

You can grow native seeds in pots but remember that they have very long roots. Use tall paper coffee cups or yogurt containers with a hole punched into the bottom with a sharp pencil, fill to within one inch of the top. Place the seed on top of the soil and fill to the desired depth. Or use your finger or a Sharpie marker to make a series of holes, drop the seed in, cover and press gently to remove air pockets.  Water lightly.

If you use shallow six-pack containers, keep an eye on the roots and when they start coming through the bottom and curl around the outside of the soil it is time to transplant to a bigger container. If the roots are packed lightly loosen with fingers or use a sharp knife to gently cut through the roots.  This frees the roots from growing circularly. Water every day or two until you see a sturdy stem and leaves.

When the natives are healthy and tall enough plant them outside by making a hole a little bigger than the size of the root ball, sprinkle in a little loose soil, set the plant in making sure the soil level in the plant and ground are the same height. Smooth a little soil around the plant to make a water wall (raised ring) and pat it down to anchor the soil. Now, add water to fill the water wall. You can replace or modify that ring in a few weeks with compost that will feed your plant every time you water. Water every couple of days until itis time to plant outside then cut back water to a couple of days a week. Add more water if they are wilted. Place natives in clumps about 3 inches apart.

Remember:  natives do not like a lot of water, wind or fertilizer or being handled too much. They like a lot of sunlight 6 + hours a day unless it is a shade plant.

Make a kit: (nippers, pruners, paper sacks, markers, fabric bags, water, snack, gloves) put in a backpack. Phone, handbook.

Summary: Pick seeds, clean, small paper bags, label/date, refrigerate 2 months (40 degrees), plant, water, transplant, put outside (50 degrees) in clumps of three, reduce water, never fertilize, 6+ hours of sun (unless shade plants), compost ok, do not transplant when mature. Take seeds.

It is unlawful to remove anything from city, state, federal property without permission from an authorized person.

Beneath the Buzz:

My Journey with Bees4Vets

By Joseph Paul Schmitt

                                                 Joseph P. Schmitt and the Bees4Vets Apiary

Introduction to Beekeeping and Bees4Vets

My beekeeping journey began with a serendipitous encounter at the 2022 Air Races, where in a busy merch hangar, Ginger and Dan Fenwick’s vivid descriptions of Apis mellifera ligustica and  bee products like propolis and honey instantly captivated me. Arriving in Reno in April 2019 had marked the beginning of a challenging but transformative chapter in my life, working through major depression and chronic insomnia, intensified by the pandemic's isolation. Finding Bees4Vets was like stumbling upon an oasis. The program offered a free gateway into beekeeping, providing all necessary tools and support, and asked only for a willingness to learn. Even the comedy is free.

Deepening Connections and Community Involvement

My first fall at the apiary was transformative, providing both a physical and mental focus that centered me and strengthened my respect for the bees' meticulous world. Winter brought classes on crafting salves, balms, and tinctures, enriching my appreciation for the bees' ecological and health impacts. A highlight was our recognition by Governor Lombardo as the "Veteran Supporter of the Month," which deepened my connection to the veteran community and led to my involvement with local VFW and other veteran organizations.

Beekeeper in Training

Spring ushered in my hands-on training, where Saturdays at the apiary were not only about learning and enjoying the sweet fruits of our labor—honey—but also about forging new connections. Alongside participating in community events and educational outreach, I had the opportunity to work with Ray Hopper and the dedicated team at Help Save the Bees Foundation, as well as the Mason Valley Beekeepers Association. Their collective efforts to promote bee conservation and education greatly enriched my experience. Additionally, meeting inspiring figures like Nate Boyer and Annika Sorenstam, who dedicate themselves to veteran causes, provided further motivation to expand my community involvement.

Reflection

Reflecting on my transformative experience with Bees4Vets, the dedication of Dan and Ginger shines through; they’ve built more than just a program—they’ve fostered a sanctuary for healing. They are a family of love, and the connection with them is just as real as it is with the bees. The growth I have experienced during this period has been amazing and the newfound connections with the bees and those in the beekeeper community has been heartwarming.

Challenges and Future Directions

Despite the community and satisfaction our apiary fosters, managing it under the harsh Nevada sun and relentless winds presents formidable challenges. These extreme conditions significantly increase the physical demands of maintaining 25 hives, each bustling with 40-50,000 bees and collectively weighing up to 240 lbs. when filled with honey and brood. As the summer progresses, a drop in participation rates leaves Dan and Ginger with the daunting task of sustaining hive operations, demanding an extraordinary effort to keep everything running smoothly. These bees are indispensable, efficiently pollinating plants within a 5-mile radius that encompasses everything from east of Plumas to the mountains, south of Los Altos, and north of Steamboat Parkway. This activity facilitates plant reproduction and nectar gathering for honey production, which is vital for their survival and the insulation of their hives. Their efforts not only bolster local ecosystems but also highlight the critical nature of our conservation work, emphasizing the urgent need to overcome challenges to maintain the sustainability of our program.

Conclusion and Call to Action

This June, I am set to expand my commitment with the Honor Ride for Veterans, embarking on a 30-day motorcycle journey to traverse 30,000 miles around the perimeter of North and Central America. This ride aims to raise awareness and funds for Bees4Vets, Help Save the Bees Foundation, and Honor Flight Nevada. Additionally, I'm thrilled to launch my new business and debut music album, ventures inspired by my experiences with Bees4Vets, which I hope will further support our causes. I urge the Reno/Sparks community, Washoe County, and beyond to recognize and support these invaluable programs. Your help will enable us to continue offering these vital services to veterans and first responders, ensuring that Bees4Vets can thrive and expand its reach. Together, we can sustain the ecological health and veteran support that are so crucial to our community.

If you would like to learn more about Bees4Vets or would like to donate to this worthy organization, please visit www.bees4vets.org

Grow Herbs for Bees

By Melinda Torvenin

Help save the bees by planting an herb garden: good for the bees and good for you too!  Many herbs provide protein-rich pollen, and nectar-rich flowers that will draw lots of different kinds of bees to your garden.  Herb gardens can provide food for pollinators from late spring until early autumn.  At the same time, they can be grown for their fabulous flavors and health benefits for humans. Fresh herbs pack in just as much nutrition as green leafy vegetables including large amounts of vitamins A, C, and K, and polyphenols that have both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. If you grow herbs, especially some of the perennial herbs like Thyme, Chives, Lemon Balm, and Oregano, leave a few stems to flower. You can harvest your herbs from the other stems and still provide vital forage for your pollinator populations. Similarly, some of the shrubby herbs like Rosemary and Sage, also have bee-friendly flowers. You don’t have to let every stem flower, but leave a few across the plant so that you get a good mix of leaves and flowers for both you and the pollinators.

Following are some popular perennial culinary herbs, with specific varieties that do very well in our Northern Nevada climate:

English Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) – A strong aromatic plant with a pungent flavor, thyme was used extensively by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans for both flavor and medicinal qualities.

Chives (Allium Schoenoprasum) –Easy grown perennial herb known for its onion-tasting leaves and pink-purple flowers, also edible.  You may get a second flowering if you cut them back after the first flowers have finished. With a mild flavor, chives are great in eggs, potatoes, fresh salads and dressings.

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) – A member of the mint family, lemon balm is a bushy perennial with creamy white or pale purple flowers.  The leaves are delicious with a lemony zing.

Greek Oregano (Origanum vulgare ‘hirtum’) – Oregano gives the classic “Italian” flavor to tomato sauces, pizza and other dishes. It works well in pastas, sauces, soups, casseroles and with beans and lentils.

Arp Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Arp’) - A deliciously fragrant herb, this variety is hardy enough to grow in Northern Nevada and can be harvested year-round. Try fresh-snipped rosemary over vegetables, with poultry, meat and fish, or in a mixed green or fruit salad.

Common Sage (Salvia officinalis) –a pungent herb that produces spikes of blue or purple flowers. Sage makes a great companion to meat, bean and root vegetable dishes and dressings.

These perennial herbs continue to grow and can be harvested late into the fall. Wait until spring to prune back, leaving remaining leaves and stems as winter habitat.

My mother made rhubarb cream in the spring, and I still do, pulling fresh spears from a plant I inherited when I moved into my log cabin. Rhubarb does not need bees for pollination, so I added strawberries, which do need bees, to this recipe. Strawberries and rhubarb are a wonderful combination. This recipe is like a fruit pie, but without the crust.

~Laurey Masterton

The ingredients:

1 pound rhubarb stalks, cut into ½-inch pieces

1 pound strawberries, sliced

¼ cup honey, preferably avocado honey (more or less to taste)

1 cup chilled whipping cream

Here’s what you do:

1. Combine the rhubarb and 1 cup water in a large nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the rhubarb is fork-tender, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes.

2. Add 3/4 pound of the strawberries and the honey and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

3. Coarsely mash the fruit mixture. Add more honey to taste if the rhubarb is especially tart. Chill.

4. Whip the chilled cream until soft peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled fruit mixture. Chill for 1 hour or longer. (You could make this late in the afternoon for dinner that night.)

5. Serve in individual bowls garnished with the remaining ¼ pound strawberry slices

Excerpted from The Fresh Honey Cookbook © 2013by Laurey Masterton. Used with permission from Storey Publishing.

Did you know? Some beekeepers use a piece of paper soaked in rhubarb tea as a natural method to control varroa mites in their hives. Rhubarb leaves contain 0.2 to 1.3% oxalic acid. Other plants with high oxalic content are spinach leaves and beets.

By David “Fez” Duffie

The Bees were buzzing to the spiritual nectar and vibrations at the Himalayan Institute outside Kajuraho, India. Meet Yogi Bee, Swami Bee, and Zen Bee.

Photos by David “Fez” Duffie

Tips for Helping the Bees

You Can Help Bees by Planting a Bee Garden, creating a wildlife habitat garden at home or anywhere in your community. Plant a variety of native blooming trees, shrubs, and wildflowers to provide bees with nectar and pollen, and include season long blooms to support bees from early spring until fall. Plant densely in masses for efficient pollen collection, and to provide cover from bad weather and hiding places from predators.

No Mow May!

Let the Bees enjoy an early season snack bar of dandelion and clover on your

un-mowed lawn.

by Lynda Fisher

Swarms of bees can often be misunderstood as a looming threat, but they are actually a fascinating and integral part of our ecosystem that plays a pivotal role in pollination and biodiversity. When bees swarm, it's not a sign of aggression, but rather a natural process in the lifecycle of a bee colony. Swarming typically occurs in spring, when a colony splits to form a new one. As the old queen leaves with about half the worker bees, they cluster around her majesty at a nearby location while scout bees search for a new permanent home. This is nature's beautiful strategy for expansion and survival, ensuring genetic diversity and colony health.

Encountering a bee swarm can be an exhilarating experience, evoking awe and a bit of adrenaline. If you stumble upon a swarm, remember that these bees are least likely to be aggressive, as they are not defending a hive but focusing on protecting their queen and conserving energy. They might buzz in a formidable ball or drape like a fuzzy cloak over a tree branch, presenting a perfect "live" lesson in bee behavior and social structure. Photographers and nature enthusiasts often seize this opportunity to observe bees up close, witnessing the mesmerizing dance of scout bees as they communicate potential new home locations to the swarm.

Educating people about the importance of swarms can lead to better protection and appreciation of bees, who are crucial for pollinating about one-third of the food crops we consume. Schools and community groups can engage in fun educational activities like building bee hotels, hosting bee-themed art projects, or even simulating a bee swarm with a group dance to learn about bee communication and decision-making. Such interactive lessons not only demystify bee behavior but also highlight the urgency of conserving our buzzing buddies who face threats from pesticides and habitat loss. So next time you see a swarm, consider it a pop-up classroom but you can also call NorthernNevadaBeekeepersAssociation.org and they are more than willing to come and relocate them for you. Please never spray or harm the swarms….they can BEE our buzzing Buddies.  

fresh-from-the-garden beets with oranges and blue cheese

Pasture-raised cows eat assorted grasses that depend on bees, so I’ve bold-faced blue cheese in the ingredients list. Not all dairy cows are raised on pasture, though, so not all milk needs honeybees; nevertheless, there are a lot of grasses that are pollinated by bees.

~Laurey Masterton

The ingredients:

1 bunch (about 1 pound) baby beets (the smaller, the better), with tops

1 navel orange, peels and white membranes removed, cut into sections

Extra-virgin olive oil

Red wine vinegar

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese (I like Maytag)

Fresh dill for garnish (optional)

Here’s what you do:

Excerpted from The Fresh Honey Cookbook © 2013 by Laurey Masterton. Used with permission from Storey Publishing.  

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